Stop 4 of 8

Gresham Palace

Gresham-palota

Here, a respectable facade will make room for the story of a small stage, satire, and a ban on practicing a profession.

15 min
Gresham Palace
Ivanhoe · CC BY-SA 3.0; cropped/resized for app; ShareAlike applies
12345678

0 of 8 done

Audio guide · recorded voiceListen to the place’s story

Look around first

What to notice

  • Peacock Gate
  • Facade facing Széchenyi István Square
  • Windows on the upper floors

The story of the place

Text size

Gresham Palace was built by the London-based Gresham Life Assurance Company. At the exit from the Chain Bridge, the company acquired an office, an expensive apartment building, and a covered shopping arcade all at once. Apartments of eight to ten rooms were rented out on the upper floors, while shops and cafés operated below. The name came with the owner: Thomas Gresham was a court merchant to Elizabeth the First and the founder of London’s Royal Exchange. The insurers chose him as their patron and then transferred his surname to the Budapest facade.

The commercial premises soon became more important than the insurance office. In the basement beneath the café on the Mérleg Street side, László Békefi opened the writers’ Pódium Cabaret in nineteen thirty-six. He was its proprietor, writer, and compère: he wrote topical texts and earned his living from evening performances. The small stage and tables pressed close against it made it possible to speak to the audience through hints, pauses, and unfinished phrases, which were harder for the censor to present as a direct violation.

The most famous program was Show Your Papers! The Second Jewish Law restricted access to professions on the basis of origin, so people had to gather documents about their ancestors and prove their own ancestry to officials. Békefi turned this procedure into satire. The program was performed more than four hundred times. For audiences, going to Pódium Cabaret became a way to publicly support someone who continued to mock Nazi influence when open criticism was becoming dangerous.

In nineteen forty-one, the Hungarian Theatre Chamber banned Békefi from appearing on stage. He lost both his platform and the profession from which he made his living. By that time, the compère was in contact with Basil Davidson, a representative of the British Special Operations Executive. Later, a Hungarian military court accused Békefi of sending a courier with secret messages to Davidson in Turkey. Békefi acknowledged the acquaintances and the money given to a woman for the journey, but denied passing on assignments. The court sentenced him to twelve years in prison. After several prisons, he was sent to Dachau. He survived, but after the war he never returned to Hungary.

Today, behind the restored Peacock Gate is the lobby of the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest. Pódium Cabaret has disappeared: it occupied the basement beneath the former Gresham Café. The building retains the name of the English merchant, but the stage on which Békefi earned his living and from which he was forbidden to speak is no longer here.

Useful on site

Time at the stop15 min
Next stopSzéchenyi Chain Bridge
Entranceoutside

Operates as an outdoor stop; access to the interior is determined by the rules of the operating hotel.

Checked: June 25, 2026. Check the official source before visiting.

Today this is an operating hotel: view the facade and entrance without disturbing guests, and ask separately about access to the interior spaces.

Next step

Where to next

Cross the square toward the Pest entrance to the Chain Bridge.

Stop 4 of 8Next: Széchenyi Chain Bridge

Route completed

Walk completed

“Pest’s Danube Bank: From Parliament to Vörösmarty Square” — 8 stops, 2.2 km, about 2 hours.

No App Store or Google Play

Guide On Map installs like an app

An icon appears on your home screen, the site opens without browser chrome, and downloaded routes stay handy.

Android · Chrome
  1. If “Install now” is below, tap it and confirm the install.
  2. If there is no button: menu ⋮ → “Install app”.
iPhone · Safari
  1. Tap the Share button at the bottom of Safari.
  2. Choose “Add to Home Screen”, then “Add”.
Home-screen iconFullscreen modeOffline routesWalk progress