Stop 5 of 8

Persian Compound

Персидское подворье

Beyond the residential doors, you can make out the former arrangement of a hotel, a warehouse, and a place for transactions.

17 min
Arcades of the inner courtyard of the Persian Compound in Astrakhan.
Александра Зайцева · CC BY-SA 4.0; cropped/resized for app; ShareAlike applies
12345678

0 of 8 done

Audio guide · recorded voiceListen to the place’s story

Look around first

What to notice

  • Wide entrance arch
  • Enclosed courtyard
  • Two-tier galleries
  • Doors along the galleries

The story of the place

Text size

The wide arch leads into a courtyard that is still enclosed by buildings with two-tier galleries. The stone walls appeared here after the wooden compound: it was rebuilt from eighteen fifty-two to eighteen sixty-three. In the White Town's business district, opposite the governor's house, a lodging place for Persian traders arriving in Astrakhan with Caspian Sea goods was taking shape. The courtyard is now part of a residential building, but its former purpose can still be discerned in the arch, cellars, and galleries.

Aji Useinov made his living from Caspian Sea shipping. In the eighteen thirties and forties, his vessels carried through Astrakhan as much as sixty to seventy percent of Russia's trade in this direction. The merchant risked money and cargo on every sea voyage, but his business's annual turnover reached seven hundred thousand rubles.

Sea transport ended at the shore. Visiting traders needed lodging, goods needed storage, and buyers and sellers needed to be brought together for a transaction. Useinov chose a site near the Persian trading rows, opposite the governor's house, in the very heart of the White Town's business district. A wooden compound already stood here. In eighteen fifty-two, the merchant began rebuilding it in stone; the work was completed in eighteen sixty-three.

The result was an enclosed quadrangle with wide gates. The cellars and lower floor were set aside for goods and shops, the upper floor for rooms for visitors. Doors opened onto shared galleries around the courtyard. A merchant could live above his own warehouse, go down to his goods, and find a partner for a transaction right here. That is why the name “Persian Compound” referred to the entire community of traders, while “Aji Useinov House” recalled who had brought their businesses together under one roof. In Russian documents, the word “gadzhi” was often written as “adzhi.”

In eighteen seventy-five, the traveler Pavel Ogorodnikov was passing through Astrakhan on his way to Persia. Aji-Aga, the compound owner's son, led him from the trading rows into the courtyard and invited him to drink sherbet. In the room, high bunks served at once as seating, a place to rest, and an office desk. Carpets, embroidered slippers, bales, and cashmere shawls lay in the corners. Ogorodnikov called the building at once a warehouse, a hotel, and an exchange for Persian merchants. Thus, Useinov's decision continued to bring the family income, while giving visitors lodging, safe storage for their goods, and a place to trade. The merchant's heirs owned the compound until nineteen seventeen.

It is now a residential building. There are no bales, office bunks, or merchants' exchange here. The wide entrance arch, enclosed courtyard, cellars, and two-tier galleries remain; only the doors along them now lead to apartments.

Useful on site

Time at the stop17 min
Next stopIndian Trading Compound
Entranceoutside

You can view it from the street at any time; entry into the courtyard and premises is not part of the route.

Checked: date not specified. Check the official source before visiting.

View the complex only from publicly accessible street space. Residential, commercial, and interior areas are not part of the route; closed gates do not mean you have missed a stop.

Next step

Where to next

Continue around the block to the building of the former Indian Trading Compound.

Stop 5 of 8Next: Indian Trading Compound

Route completed

Walk completed

“Astrakhan: Kremlin and Caspian Trade” — 8 stops, 3.4 km, 2 hr 20 min.

No App Store or Google Play

Guide On Map installs like an app

An icon appears on your home screen, the site opens without browser chrome, and downloaded routes stay handy.

Android · Chrome
  1. If “Install now” is below, tap it and confirm the install.
  2. If there is no button: menu ⋮ → “Install app”.
iPhone · Safari
  1. Tap the Share button at the bottom of Safari.
  2. Choose “Add to Home Screen”, then “Add”.
Home-screen iconFullscreen modeOffline routesWalk progress