Route

Modernist Houses of Eixample

From Illa de la Discòrdia to Casa Thomas

3 hr 30 minabout 1.5 km6 stops
0 / 6 done
Route cover: modernist Eixample, Illa de la Discòrdia, Casa Batlló, Casa Milà, and city façades.

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6 stops
Walk map: Modernist Houses of Eixample
© OpenStreetMap contributors
© OpenStreetMap contributors

About the walk

You will walk along Passeig de Gràcia, from its famous row of mismatched façades to the quieter streets of Eixample. First, you will compare the houses through which industrialists and heirs declared their standing. Then the route leads to a massive stone building on a corner, a grand palace on Avinguda Diagonal, and a former printing workshop.

The story will not rest on a list of architectural techniques, but on the decisions of the owners. Why did only one house receive a bronze plaque? How did balconies appear before permission was granted? Why was a city palace given 2 completely different façades? And what was found in boxes prepared for removal from a basement?

By the end, you will read the façades of Eixample as an agreement between a family, an architect, tenants, and city rules—and learn which house preserved not only itself, but also the images once printed inside it.

Why this order

First, the whole row at Illa de la Discòrdia sets the scene for architectural rivalry. A few steps along the same street let you examine Casa Amatller first, then neighboring Casa Batlló: the buildings served the same purpose, making the differences between the commissions especially clear. The direct route along Passeig de Gràcia then brings you to Casa Milà and lets you compare the remodeling of an older rental building with a large new corner building. From there, Avinguda Diagonal leads to the residence of a new baron, where the same connection between status and rental income takes on a different façade and a different arrangement of rooms. The final walk past the rear of the palace to Casa Thomas shifts from a grand residence to a house and workshop: the route ends not with a façade commission, but with the fate of materials made and left inside.

Good for

Those who want to understand Catalan modernism, not just photograph it Architecture lovers who enjoy human conflicts Those ready to compare neighboring façades and notice small details

Worth noting

Those looking for a route devoted only to buildings by Antoni Gaudí Those more interested in interiors than urban history Those who do not enjoy spending time looking closely at façades

Before you go

Expect the main part of the walk to take place outdoors. For a full view of Illa de la Discòrdia, Casa Batlló, and Casa Milà, it helps to cross to the other side of the street several times: up close, the materials are easier to see, but the composition of the whole façade is lost.
Plan visits to the interiors of Casa Amatller, Casa Batlló, and Casa Milà separately, and book your chosen format in advance. Do not try to fit in all 3 without allowing extra time.
Palau Baró de Quadras is occupied by a cultural institution, while Casa Thomas matters above all as an urban and industrial address, so free access inside is not expected. For these stops, the story and an exterior visit are complete in themselves.

When to go

About 3 hours 15 minutes for the walk with exterior viewing; up to 5 hours 15 minutes if you add preselected interiors.

Backup plan

If you cannot get inside your chosen houses, keep the full route in the same order: its main thread can be read through the façades, the scale of the buildings, and the changing streets. At Casa Amatller and Casa Batlló, focus on the differences between neighboring houses; at Casa Milà, on the continuous stone shell and the roof; and at Palau Baró de Quadras, be sure to compare the Avinguda Diagonal and Carrer de Rosselló sides.
If time is short, skip the interiors rather than the final 2 stops: they are what shift the walk from familiar images toward the social and working history of Eixample. In bad weather, shorten long stops on Passeig de Gràcia, but leave time to view the façades from a distance.

  1. 1

    Illa de la Discòrdia

    Here you will see the entire dispute at once and learn what official answer the city hall gave to it.
  2. 2

    Casa Amatller

    This stop shows how a family inheritance became both a museum and a working institute.
  3. 3

    Casa Batlló

    Here you will see which parts of the famous appearance were built before officials agreed to legalize them.
  4. 4

    Casa Milà

    The story of the commission explains why part of the architect’s design disappeared, while the unrealized dedication remained on the façade.
  5. 5

    Palau Baró de Quadras

    This stop will show how a new title was combined with formal rooms and income-producing apartments.
  6. 6

    Casa Thomas

    The final stop will connect the layout of the house-workshop with the rescue of a photographic archive left in its basement.

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